I awoke slowly. My body felt strange and unresponsive. Mike was rustling in his sleeping bag a few feet away. We were on top of El Cap, and the sun was almost upon us. It seemed like I had just exited a long intense dream, but I knew that it wasn't a dream. My body doesn't feel like that after only a dream. We did top out the previous night. We had spent the last 6 hot days in late June on the wall. We did wake at 3 am each day to climb and were chased by the sun each day. We did get caught in a half-day storm that rocked us and soaked everything and jeopardized our ascent. We did free climb the PreMuir. It felt like I crash-landed back into my normal body and mind.
It seemed like a dream because the 6 days were spent on another level of concentration and consciousness. It was a state of incessant presence of mind and focus on a singular objective. I wish I had had the ability to act without attachment to a result, but I didn't, I wanted to succeed. Because of that, there was pressure. I felt a crushing pressure the whole time that we were on the wall. This state of awareness and existence required an expenditure of energy far greater than any regular day. Thus after 6 days in that state, I was incredibly depleted.
That morning I felt like Atlas if he had shrugged the world off his shoulders. Mike and I made coffee, and after a time he wandered off to do some morning business. I was still half in my sleeping bag, and I looked around. The view from the top of El Cap is amazing. My breath got shorter, and my eyes welled up. I cried until Mike got back. I was so relieved and proud. He said, "It's okay man. We did it." He was right -- we fucking did it.
There were LOTS of VOKE tabs consumed in those days. They helped with the early mornings, and also the mid-afternoon slumps in energy and fatigue. There isn't another product out there that delivers the energy and clarity, but is lightweight and packable enough to take while climbing. We were lucky to have them.
For a full interview of Sam Elias and Mike Kerzhner in Rock and Ice Magazine Click This Link.
What adventures can you find in an afternoon? VOKE TAB athlete Jeff Shapiro shows us his version of a scenic trip in the Mountains.
Music: "The Fly"
Shot and Jumped: Jeff Shapiro
Edited by: Max Lowe Media
A Voke Anthem by Max Lowe Media and Camp4 Collective.
Music by onomono.net
Words by Max Lowe
Photos by Kalen Caughey
Slogging step after heavy step through the thinning air atop Archdeacon's Ridge, the fight to hold onto the fleeting strength that kept our feet moving and fingers from freezing was ebbing away. After 4 pushes for the summit of Denali, only to be shut down by unforeseen weather patterns above 17,000 feet, this was our day. Moving fast and strong we were set on the summit. Coming over the ridgeline with the plateau of the "Football Field" ahead and our path to the summit within sight we celebrated a premature victory over the grand massif. Minutes away from the summit ridge and our certain road to the top, a deep guttural rumble shook the spectrum around us. As the afternoon eased on, large cumulous clouds had gathered like ominous cotton balls blotting out all signs of the land below. They now boiled up and engulfed our team, snuffing our desired route to the summit. Electricity permeated the air within the white fog as we stumbled downward to gather as a team on the Football Field. Freckles of lightning danced along our ice axes and brims of our helmets. Conrad Anker, the leader and most experienced member of our team made it clear that we had to get down, out of the snowstorm and under the electrical storm. We were beaten within an inch, temps were dropping and we still had another 6 hours of tactful and delicate movement down the mountain.
Three weeks had passed since we set out with a team of some of the best climbers, skiers and snowboarders in the world, with sights on climbing and skiing off the summit of the tallest peak in North America. This endeavor was to take us the better part of a month and would be one of the largest backcountry expedition style missions that many of us had embarked upon. Ralph Backstrom, world-class big mountain snowboarder and winner of last years Snowboard Free-ride World Tour, was one of the newcomers to the high altitude realm of mountaineering.
"Immersion in Alaskan mountains has been one of my favorite forays in my world of riding over recent years, and in fact I spent almost a month this spring in the mountains of AK riding big lines. When I received an invite to come on a trip to Denali from Conrad, I knew it would be an experience unlike any I had yet to embark upon" – Ralph
Marching slowly up and across the mass of the upper Kahiltna Glacier made for some of the most challenging days on the mountain. The sheer will power and endurance needed to survive in the environment that Denali National Park provided was truly something that the newcomers on our team had never experienced. The guidance that we received from the senior members of our team including Conrad, Jeremy Jones and Jon Krakauer kept spirits high and attitudes eager. This stellar cache of leadership was also what made decision making in our group sharp and direct when we were faced by the lightning storm on our summit push.
As the blizzard raged around us we abandoned hopes of our push to the top. Directives from Conrad made it clear that our only goal was to safely arrive at our established camp 6,000 feet below. Propelled by necessity, we pulled from our final reserves, sharing what little water we had left and a tin of Voke tabs to propel our aching legs and tired minds on the long descent to the comfort of our high altitude home.
Camp 1 - All Eyes on the high one.
Moving up from Camp 1 (8,000 ft) to Camp 2 (11,000 ft.). The gear load averaged 125 lbs per person split between our packs and plastic sleds.
After stashing food and gear at Windy Corner (13,500 ft) we racked up our sleds and took a cruise back down to 11K camp. Brody Leven, Conrad Anker, Jeremy Jones, Rachel Pohl, Ralph Backstrom, Jacqui Edgerly.
Max and Ralph taking in the view from 14,000 camp.
The team ascending fixed ropes above 14,000 ft camp. Dawn patrol on one of 5 summit bids.
This snap is at 20,000 ft on summit ridge after crossing the Football Field and ascending Pig Hill, 300 vertical feet from the tallest spot in North America. Stoke was high, soo close to our goal after three weeks of climbing. 5 minutes later we heard the first thunderclap. 15 minutes later the blue sky we had enjoyed all day became a whiteout blizzard as the team regrouped below Pig Hill. The electrical storm that followed had our hair standing up and carabiners crackling. With thunder overhead, we made our retreat back down 6000 ft to 14K camp...feeling grateful nobody got sizzled. As Conrad said, "we are just flies on an anvil."
Jacqui Edgerly, Ralph Backstrom and Max Lowe descending through some haze near Washburns Thumb (16,600 ft) after being turned around by the electrical storm at 20K ft.
Team Wild Salmon fully assembled: Brody Leven, Jeremy Jones, Jacqui Edgerly, Kasha Rigby, Robin Hill, Conrad Anker, Rachel Pohl, Kalen Caughey, Jon Krakauer, Ryan Hudson, Max Lowe, KT Miller, Ralph Backstrom, Phil Henderson.
Rachel Pohl getting one final pow lap above 14K camp. An hour later we started our all night descent back down to the melted out plane 'runway' at 7,200 feet on the lower Kahiltna Glacier.
Epic rides to and from the glacier thanks to Talkeetna Air Taxi.